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transrisk score vs. vantage score
I have a 700+ score for the transrisk score but a much lower score for the vantage score. Why is that, how can I raise the vantage score and how will that difference affect me?
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 I just read online that your transrisk score is based on your score over your life time (300-800) where your vantage score (500-900) is based on more recent credit history so if your vantage score is lower that means you have bad things on your reports from recently.  Same if your vantage score is higher you have been "good lately", but possibly not in the past.  The banks use your FICO score. which is closer to your transrisk score than vantage score. 

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Can you help me find where this information is available online, where did you find the parameters of the transrisk score?

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Helpful to 5 out of 9 people

 I'm just sick of all these games.  First, why do all three credit reports have different numbers.  They should all have the same information.  Next it seems the more I pay down my debt, the more my score goes down.  This is ridiculous!  Why bother especially when the government can't pay their bills but I can pay mine ON TIME!

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First of all, different companies do inquiries from different bureaus.  An inquiry lowers your score.  This is one factor which makes scores lower from different companies.  Another is the aspect of who your creditors report to.  They don't always report to all 2 bureaus.  I have an account that has been open for many years that I do not use.  This only reports to one bureau.  This means that the average age of accounts is longer, which affects the credit score there, not at other bureaus.  It also affects it in regards to credit utilization, which also affects scores. 

If you can get your debt down to 10-20 % of your available credit, then you will have the better scores.  It must be kept this way for a period of time.  I see my score change for a few days when my utilization changes, usually it ends up for the better.  Try readjusting you CC usage so that CC's are used after the billing cycle and paid before the billing cycle.  This should be easy if you have multiple cards. 

To avoid paying interest get a Capital One card and transfer your balances to it.  Pay it off each month.  Imagine that you spend only $10 a month on interest.  Capital One does not charge a fee for transfers and interest accrues after the billing cycle, at a higher rate.  $10 may not seem like much, but over the course of a year it could be a nice dinner out or a better hotel room for vacation.  Remember, only charge what you can afford to pay off each month.  It takes some control, but is well worth it.  Once you have paid an account off, don't use it for 3 months, then ask for a credit limit increase.  If given, this will help to reduce your credit utilization rate.  If you can keep some accounts at $0 this will also help. 

Don't expect much in regards to CLI's from CapOne, they are notoriously not good for giving them.  I have not had an increase with them for 2 years, but have excellent payments and other factors with them, including using my account for 7 times it's credit limit for the last year and 3 times for one month alone.  Now I just use the account to transfer balances on accounts that have gone through a cycle.  I only do this so that the original account shows a balance at the end of the cycle and to make Capital One do more work.  (I pay the balance off every month!  They do the transfer, I pay them, they don't make interest, this makes me happy since I don't get CLI's.  I also avoid charging anything at a store on their cards, this way they don't money off the discount rate.)

Keep all good accounts open.  Negotiate with accounts with high balances to lower the interest rate.  Pay off/transfer the ones with the highest interest rate first.  Pay the transferred amount each month and start over after the billing cycle, to avoid any issues.  Start again or even start small with transferring what you can pay off.  Remember, save money on the interest!

By the way, what the government does is not important and your comparison is not valid.

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Helpful to 3 out of 4 people

 I already have a 739 score ( TransRisk New Account Score provided by TransUnion), but my vanatage score is much lower.  I know about the letter by the vanatage but it does not explain why there is a difference between the two, especially since both my recent and my less recent activity has been good.    Likewise how do I get the second score higher?  Or is the FICO and Vantage scores the same thing and the transunion score something totally different?

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Helpful to 1 out of 1 people

I'm in a similar boat.  My transrisk score (which would more closely mimic the FICO score) went up.  But, my Vantage score went down.   Relative between the two, my transrisk score is SIGNIFICANTLY better than my Vantage score. 

I am not getting why the difference here.  Why would something that makes the Transrisk score jump by 20 or so points, but make the Vantage score go down by about 20. 

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Helpful to 3 out of 6 people

What are you trying to achieve with monitoring your credit?  If you are trying to get to a certain FICO score to apply for financing, the Vantage Score also has a letter grade next to the score.  Once you're in the "C" range, you should be in position to apply.

The "C" range will get you into the 600's on the FICO model.  The "B" range is upper 600's to low 700. And the "A" range should put you at 740+ on the FICO scale.

Most banks/lenders are still using the FICO scores.  The Vantage model has yet to be fully accepted by the lending industry, but there are some bank that do.

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I'm sorry but you are dead wrong.  I have a D for vantage score of 657, but my actual FICO is 691.  So a "C" or "B" do not correlate with your actual FICO score.

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What banks do lending by the vantage score? My and my fiance's vantage score is much higher than the transrisk score and we would like to buy a house and our vantage score is high enough but our transrisk score is not.

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