matman1490

not sure what you mean by FICA score.. FICA is your payroll deduction for social security... you are looking for a FICO score,  it may very well lower your scores, simply because you are increasing the total amount available you can safely borrow based on your income and expense or Debt to Income ratios...

 nandog did you even bother to read his question??? if as he says, he's got an annual APR of 0.9% and a monthly payment of $675.35... just how exactly is he gonna do any better? First, he's not about to do better on the APR, so the only thing he can do is extend his term beyond the 36 months he originally signed up for and I guarranty no bank is gonna give him a rate anywhere nere what he has now... so, even though he may be making SMALLER monthly payments, he's gonna pay a lot more in the long run for the same car, because of the higher rate and longer term... the other thing is he's prolly traded in a car he was upside down on, and this was the best deal they could wedge him into. the one thing to consider is if he was upside down going into this loan, there's no way to get him out of this loan without him going deeper upside down, becasue you'll never pay off the loan faster than the new car depreciates... So, in another 36 months when this new car is at the end of his term, he'll not only have minimal resale left in the car he has now, but, he'll still be upside down from the old one. (that trade in value is ***ulative, and always forward, from old car, to newer car) my advice is this... you are stuck in this car till the bitter end, my friend... anything you do, may lower your monthly payment, but will cost you substantially more in interest, and only force you to have to hold on to the car that much longer, untill you can pay off every dime of whats owed on both this car, and the last one you traded in to get this one. Plan on driving the wheels off this car.

you need to contact a local credit attorney familiar with state banking and finance law... basically it comes down to separating yourself from your husband, giving notice, allowing people to realize you 2 arent still together, then re establishing your self as Ms Jane single, instead of Mrs Jane Married. "I [name] do hereby publically swear under penalties of perjury, than on and after this date, I will no longer be held responsible for any and all debts, contracted by anyone other than my self. Public notice hereby given in [name of paperin your local area with a population of 100,000 or more] [your name and address] [your attorneys name and address] as a starting point, mention this problem to your divorce attorney, and let them give you a direction to go. been divorced, wasnt fun, but you can get past it and be better off, it will just take a few years... hang in there.   

well one thing to consider is if the cards have gone to collections or not...  closed accounts that are not in collections, and being paid offf to the original creditor, need to continue to be paid on, every month... however if  the creditor has turned the accounts over to a collection agency, you can easily do yourself alot more harm than good by making any contact with anyone regarding this line... you could try to contact the credit card company and discussing the account with them. If they will disscuss a settlement, then negotiate a payoff with them, start with something you can easily manage, say 40% of whats owed... Thats $400 on a $1000 balance... " If I can get that out in the mail to you,this week, would you consider removing any and all lines regarding this debt from any and all credit reporting bureaus, you may have submitted this to?" if they say they can, then get something in writting signed by the person you spoke to, then once you have that agreement in hand, then make good on your promise to send them a payment. 9 times out of 10 though, if the account has already gone to collections then the original company has sold your debt, and no longer has any paperwork on your debt, ( and in that case, can not legally do anyting to change it or remove it) in this case, DO NOT MAKE ANY ATTEMPTS TO CONTACT THE COLLECTION AGENCY REGARDING THIS DEBT, PERIOD. If you do make contact and the collection agency dos confir the debt.. then they can and will resubmit your debt back to the credit reporting bureau as a 'new' debt, and as such resets the statute of imitations clock, turning what may have been close to seven years old, and almost ready to fall off our credit, to a brand new negative line that will stick around for another full seven years, and since it was just updated, then forget about filing a dispute with the credit reporting agency to get it removed...

there are ways to buy RE w/o good credit... you may need a larger down payment, even as much as 30 percent down to get someone to take a risk with you. but if you have a decent rental history, you might look for properties that are rent to own, or no credit check...   another place to look would be your local county sherriffs auctions... everry area is different, but, in my area, I picked up a 3 bed 2 bath 1760 sq ft home with a 2 car garage, that sold in 2005, for $68,000 for about $7500... The property had been taken back for non payment of tax liens, and sold by the county at auction. you might think it would be a disaster area, but aside from paint and a good cleaning, its turned into  a cute little house in a decent area.

do what jointly? as written, your question makes no sense..  

expect the highest interest available , and 30% down, in today's market, banks can afford to sit back and skim off the top tier credit apps... they have no incentive to help lower tier credit customers, so, they jam you with the highest rates and worst terms because they know most people are hurting, and will need forgiving terms just to get the loan, so the banks are piling on the fees.   also expect the bank to carefully look over your income and job history too. if you are borderline on job time or your debt to income is high, then they may not want the risk without a fat downpayment. MY next car would be 1 or 2 years old, or current model year if I can score a demo I like, I plan on getting another 3 years minimum out of my cars, and maintain them that way, then every month I am making a small monthly payment (about what a car payment would be) into my savings account. I pay it every month, like any other bill, then in the summer of 15, I can take my now 4 year old car, and repeat the steps... I figure I'll have enough saved to by a car I like for cash, and alk out with a car that looks new, with full factory incentives and warranties, but with less than a few thousand miles on it. we bought my wife's 2010 Jeep Wrangler that way when we traded in her '99 Grand Cherokee, my 2003 Taurus, then made up the other half of the purchase with about 36 months of payments we saved... it got us out of 3 bank loans, ( the one on the 99, the 2003, and the loan we wouldve had on the new one, had we not bought in cash.. ) considering what we paid in interest on the loans, I think this is gonna be a big help to the savings..

first theres no way for anyone here to say definately one way or the other, what your score will do based on just the info in your post on a public message board. No one else reading this has any more information specific to you, than you provide. secord, you have 3 scores, not just one... you may not be as bad off as you think. good luck. 

how much do they think you make? If you have never been late, and kept your balances below 40% of line limit, I cant believe you are still at $500. Ive been with capital one for 20 months on my first card, and 14 months on my second, Ive always paid in full on both cards, and always 7 days before the due date, I've always gotten an increase on both cards, one or the other every six months.  I've never asked for a CLI, they just give them to me. my highest utlization was 42 percent. scores are 686- 710 across all 3 bureaus.  

forget credit counseling... you are essentially paying money to a professional, that cant do anything for you that you can not do for yourself and you are spending money on the counselor, that you could be spending on your bills... first, make a date, to start paying every bill on time, every time. second, do not deal with collections agencies, if an account is already in collections, there is nothing you can do to recover your scores, the damage is already done. anytime that collection angency has activity on your account they will be reporting it to the credit bureaus, especially if the account is getting older and closer to the 7 yr mark, in most areas the Statute of Limitations limit. they may also report this account to the credit bureaus, if they sell your debt to another collection agency, who will then treat it as a 'new' debt, regardless of when the original creditor marked it as 'in collections'... If they can successfully make contact with you, and confirm you acknowledge the debt, then they can and will report this line to the credit bureaus as a 'new' debt, and the SOL clock reset and starts all over... the moral of the story here is, DO NOT DEAL WITH CREDITORS ON THE PHONE. IF THEY WERE SERIOUS, THEY WOULD BE WRITITNG. NOT CALLING. IF A COLLECTOR CALLS, HANG UP... THERE IS NO LAW ON THE BOOKS THAT SAYS JUST BECAUSE THE PHONE RANG, YOU HAD TO PICK IT UP.     third, you may be able to negotiate your debts with the original creditor, if the account has not yet been turned over to a collection agency.. offer them a lump sum, say 640 percent of whats owed, if they will remove all entries regarding your delinquency from all credit bureau files. if they agree, then GET IT SIGNED AND IN WRITING! then make the lump sum payment you agreed to. last never ever file for bankruptcy without consulting at least 2 local BK attorneys that have heard your entire story, and looked everything over for you... BK WILL MESS UP YOU FINANCES FOR THE NEXT 10 YEARS! Unless you are in real danger of being sued, i would not even think about it.

i sold what is now verizon back in the 90's and they wanted a $500 -1500 deposit for scores below 620. up to $1000 for scores below 700. you have 3 scores not just one, you might make some calls to local providers, and ask if they pull a merged credit score for new customers, or just from one bureau on another... if they pull from just one bureau then try to look for someone that pulls from your highest score. one more thing, if you are concerned about taking the hit from the inquiry, then pull your scores yourself.. you'll still have to pay for the score, but at least then your scores will be in hand, and you will not take a score hit for each person you talk to,  

no CK uses your transunion score only..  

give it time, 

if they are in collections or about to become collections, then yes, you can save youirself a lot of grief if you can pay them off, or make arrangements to get them paid off.. If you can work a deal for them to accept a pay off, and then remove 'any and all lines regarding this debt, from any and all credit reporting bureaus it may have been submitted to, then thats even better. Just remember to do everything relating to colliections, your bills or anything financial in wirting, not over the phone. you need something detailing the agreement, and who authorized it, if anything goes sideways, then you have the proof you need to sue in court, if they dont hold up their end of the bargain.  

as soon as you are able without sacrificing your other expenses.  

if the account has already gone to collections, FORGET ABOUT IT.  nothing you do will improve the damage already done, UNLESS you can get them to agree to completely remove any and all lines regarding this debt, from all credit reporting bureaus it may have been submitted to, in writing, signed and in hand, i wouldnt be paying anyone a dime on this debt. that money will go to the collector, and not the original creditor. and does nothing to improve your credit.  

BK's and public records will stay on your reports for 7-10 years, I've had both, and it was a full 10 years, plus a couple months for the information to make it to the credit bureaus, before i saw any changes, but, yes your scores should go up, easily 50-75 points across all 3 bureaus.  

it would depend on how long you have held the card. it may not affect your credit utiliation score, but, it could easily affect your average age of open accounts which would lower your score...  also, you have 3 credit scores, one from each bureau, not just one.

absolutely they can.... read the credit dislosures, and card holder agreement they sent you. the company reserves the right to confirm and validate any of the information asked for oon the card holder application, and this would include your income and expense information, job and residency history.  

anytime that collection angency has activity on your account they will be reporting it to the credit bureaus, especially if the account is getting older and closer to the 7 yr mark, in most areas the Statute of Limitations limit. they may also report this account to the credit bureaus, if they sell your debt to another collection agency, who will then treat it as a 'new' debt, regardless of when the original creditor marked it as 'in collections'... If they can successfully make contact with you, and confirm you acknowledge the debt, then they can and will report this line to the credit bureaus as a 'new' debt, and the SOL clock reset and starts all over... the moral of the story here is, DO NOT DEAL WITH CREDITORS ON THE PHONE. IF THEY WERE SERIOUS, THEY WOULD BE WRITITNG. NOT CALLING. IF A COLLECTOR CALLS, HANG UP... THERE IS NO LAW ON THE BOOKS THAT SAYS JUST BECAUSE THE PHONE RANG, YOU HAD TO PICK IT UP.  

all you need to get a holdd of someones credit reports is their SSN and their birthday...

 first your personal credit score has nothing to do with business credit, they should be separate. never combined. also business credit has its own scoring system through dunn and bradstreet among others. second, you have 3 personal credit scores not just one, and apllying for any loan business or personal, takes into consideration alot more than just one credit score...

 forget credit counseling... you are essentially paying money to a professional, that cant do anything for you that you can not do for yourself and you are spending money on the counselor, that you could be spending on your bills... first, make a date, to start paying every bill on time, every time. second, do not deal with collections agencies, if an account is already in collections, there is nothing you can do to recover your scores, the damage is already done. third, you may be able to negotiate your debts with the original creditor, if the account has not yet been turned over to a collection agency.. offer them a lump sum, say 640 percent of whats owed, if they will remove all entries regarding your delinquency from all credit bureau files. if they agree, then  GET IT SIGNED AND IN WRITING! then make the lump sum payment you agreed to. last never ever file for bankruptcy without consulting at least 2 local BK attorneys that have heard your entire story, and looked everything over for you... BK WILL MESS UP YOU FINANCES FOR THE NEXT 10 YEARS! Unless you are in real danger of being sued, i would not even think about it.

you need a lot more than just good scores...640 at a minimum.... you need stable employment at least 2 years in the same field... you need a a monthly income high enough to support the loan you are asking for... a good ballpark is 3 times your annual salary... ( you make 35K a yr, look at houses around 100-110K) your monthly debt for household expenses needs to be no more than 28% of your monthly income. (rent or mortgage/taxes/insurance/HOA dues/utilities etc) if you make 35k then your monthly income is $2916 of which you shouldnt be spending more than $816 on rent and household stuff each month, and your total debt should not exceed more than 36% of your monthly income.. again if you make $35K a yr, then you shouldnt be spending more than  $1049 a month on all of your bills....everything for the month. you should also have at least 6 months in savings and/or checking for emergencies... your down pay ment can vary depending on the loan program you are shooting for, but, if you are looking at a OWNER OCCUPIED single family home, you'll need 5% minimum cash down up front, on a 100k home, thats $5K at an absolute minimum. not including the savings and checking account figures i already quoted. one last thing plan on also chipping in 2500 - 5500 in taxes fees and closing costs for upfront expenses like utility deposits, realtor fees, escrow fees, insurance deposits, inspections, appraisal fees, title search and doc fees, this can also vary based on the final sale price of the home, what market you are in... ( termite inspections are common in the southeast, not so common in the great lakes region) we also havent figured on moving expenses, like truck rentals, and packing supplies.. as someone that has bought and sold properties in several states over several years, my advice is take your highest estimate of what you think any move will cost, and double it. then if you are moving across state lines, then double it again...

 a car that is paid off is an ASSET. your credit reports only track how you pay your DEBTS,