Brutus2001x

I've had this card for about 6 months now, and it's just like any other credit card, except, the perks are awesome.  Priority board on CO and UA flights, primary rental car damage waiver, roadside assistance, and much more.  All part of the basic pacakge.  

It would have no effect, long term, on your credit report.  Only do it if you will save money on interest.  

As a pilot myself, in my experience, if you need a loan, you shouldn't do it.  Yes you can get your certifcate on a loan, but then how do you expect to use it. With aircraft rates between $80 and $150 a tach hour, you'll never use it.   I'd wait until you get enough cash flow to pay for it as you do it.  Generally speaking, you don't need to pay in full upfront, as the amount of time required to get a license varies from student to student.  Also, if you are trying to do one of those get your license in two weeks shcools, don't. Your better off at your local airport learning from an older instructor who isn't just trying to build time to get an airline job.

Well, if you read the cardmember agreement, you'll discover that they can close the account at their discretion for any reason at any time.  They exercised this right in the contract.  You may be able to get them to reopen one or two, but probably not.  What they are seeing is risky behavior.  Sometimes called a bankruptcy party, where a person gets a ton of new credit, racks it up, and then files bankruptcy without paying the debt.  Secondly, the discounts at a department store that you receive from getting their store card are only good deals if you pay the card off in full, otherwise, they won when you pay interest.

Pull a copy of your credit report and print it out.  Write a letter to the creditor and send it along with a copy of the letter they sent you, a copy of the cancelled check from the payment, and a copy of your report with the account highlighted.  In this letter state that you had paid the debt and request that they properly remove the durrogatory remark.  Send it certified mail, with return receipt.  That way you can prove they got it. If they are unwilling to deal, get an attorney.  They entered into a contract with you, and if you held up your end of the deal, they are obliged to hold up their end.  You don't need to file suit, a scary letter generally will do the trick. But send your letter first.

You have to pay it.  A charge off means that the bank that originally had the note decided to sell the account to a collection agency.  They do this for tax purposes, it's called bad debt expense, the difference between what you owe and what they got for it is a write off. You owe the money, but now the collection agency is the creditor.  You need to contact them and figure out a way to get it paid off.  It's one of a few ways to get rid of it.   If you have several open collection accounts, you may want to go to an attorney and discuss bankruptcy options.  

If you owe money, there is no way to get around it besides bankruptcy.  And bankruptcy isn't that bad.  Here's why: While under bankruptcy protection your creditors cannot:

• Attempt to collect the debt
• Issue you new credit
• Contact you in any way except to notify you that they have been notified of your bankruptcy

Under bankruptcy protection you cannot:

• Seek new credit
• Open a checking account

After being discharged, your creditors cannot contact you, it's gone.  Unless you reaffirmed the debt, like if you wanted to keep your car or house. Once two years from discharge passes, you'll be fine.  You'll be able to get an unsecured credit card and move on with your life.  Don't listen to lexington law, they are scam artists.

Contact the bureaus and see why it is still repoting.  It should have fallen off.  You can also try calling the original creditor and see if they can help. Normally it's a clerical error in these situations.

If the debts are that old, they are no longer collectible, generally speaking.  I wouldn't file the BK.   Also, the bankruptcy wouldn't fix the repo'd car unless you had an outstanding debt on it anyways.

Check out this article, it has excellent information on this subject:    http://today.msnbc.msn.com/id/42997608/ns/today-parenting_and_family/t/stop-id-thieves-stealing-your-kids-credit/#.TwnM528V0-A

@AppleRules and @hokieg33k it all depends on how many other inquiries and accounts you have.  If you only have the one account and inquiry, it doesn't matter.  Go for it.  Your score will suffer only slightly.  If however, you have many inquiries, wait until they drop off, that takes about 2 years.

That all depends by what you mean by "correct".  If it is an invalid charge off, so a clerical error, call the creditor and they can get it straightened out pretty quick.  They don't like having upset good customers out there.   Even if you aren't a customer anymore, they are willing to take care of it, because heck, you might become a customer again. Now, if it is a valid charge-off, the only way to get rid of it is time.  Period.  7 years from the date of last activity.  If you have an outstanding debt with them, settle it.  Then wait.  

Well, you had a debt with someone.  LVNV purchases portfolios of bad debt from creditors and then goes and collects the debts.  They puchase the debt at a discount, depending on the age of the debt, the likelihood of payoff, the amount of the debt, etc., all determines the price they pay for it. They have every right, as your debts are assignable, to come after you for the money.   A debt is a loan and a loan is a debt.  They are synonyms.  If you owe a company money, that's a debt.  Which is in a sense a loan, you just may not have signed a whole bunch of paperwork for it.  Call LVNV and get it settled. 

Run your bureaus through annual credit report and go from there.  They have contact info for each creditor on the report.  Pick up the phone and call the creditors and collectors.  You can make deals with collectors to get the accounts removed from your bureau with full payment.  Just get it in writing. Some are willing to do this, others aren't.  Just keep your cool.

First, contact the original credit grantor to see why the account went into collections.  If it's not valid, they should, and most likely will, reverse the collection activity.  Second, contact the collection agency and find out more about the debt.  If it's a small amount, make a deal with them, and get it in writing, to remove it from your credit report upon full payment.  The in writing part is huge, if you don't get it in writing, it never happened.  Period. You can also dispute it via the bureaus, they will investigate.  But if the debt is valid, they will not reverse it.  You can also put a consumer statement on your credit report stating why the debt is invalid.   That being said, call the grantor and the collector, get it squared away.  It's the easiest way.  Just keep your cool, don't get upset with them, it doesn't help.  They are used to getting abused.

You have two choices: airline and non-airline.  Airline cards offer miles with a specific airline that are redeemable with them and their alliance partners, if they are a member of one.  Non-airline travel rewards cards offer points or miles for the redemption of flights on any airline.   Keep in mind that non-airline cards take the total fare and multiply it by 100 to get your total points.  So a $250 ticket is 25,000 miles.  Now, airline cards use the airline's standard rewards chart, so a ticket from New York to LA, which would be $600 is only 25,000 miles.  But you need to choose an airline card for an airline that services your local airport well, or it will be hard to get rewards, at least without driving too far.

It depends on the type of item, credit accounts are supposed to drop off after 7 years after the last activity.  So if the account closed 7 years ago and you paid it off 6 years and 6 months ago, it will be on until 7 years from the day you paid it off.   Bankruptcies and other public records can stay on for up to 10 years.

It may be because you are an authorized user on someone else's account.  You may also want to pull your actual credit report at annualcreditreport.com for more clarification.

 You will have a five year history.  History is based on the account, not the user.  Give it a month or two to show up though.  It takes time for the reporting to happen.  Some banks don't report every month.

 Each credit scoring system has it's own complex formula, or algorithm.  There are always variances between the scores.  Further, each bureau has different information about you, and they are not allowed to share information with each other, so there is another reason for the differnce.    In regards to your credit utilization, it is not 0% if you use your cards.  If you have a balance on your statement date, you have utilization.  That's okay.  The target is to keep it under 20%, so on your $11,000 total limit, $2,200 is a target.  Your AMEX charge does not count in this as it does not report a limit.    Average age is relatively simple.  Add up the ages of all your lines, so 3 cards at 72 months each and 1 card at 2 months, then an auto loan at 12 months and a mortgage at 36 months. That gives you a total age of 22 years and 2 months.  Now, divide it by the number of lines that you have, in this instance, 6, you get an average age of 3 years and 9 months.   To increase your credit score you may want to consider opening another revolving credit line, like a credit card.  It could help. It might not.  It all depends on your situation.

With all due respect, the young are more likely to live paycheck to paycheck and therefore be late on a payment.  Further, the young are more likely to take on debt.  It's a vicious little cycle.  But, older people generally are more responsible with their money. 

I've read a lot of complaints on here regarding the correlation between age and credit score in this chart.  First, as stated in the disclaimer this is an average, so the data is correlary at best, not causal.   We can draw some relationships however, that tell us why, when you are 20 you most likely have a lower credit score than someone who is 50.  Consider that when you are young you make less money, unless you are a superstar athlete or celebrity or some other exception to the rule.  Secondly, when you are younger you are just establishing yourself, making large purchases more frequently, like cars, a house, and furniture. These are all done on credit, with more lines being open, the greater the risk to the bank.  An older person is less likely to have as many lines open as his debts are paid.  It's not stacked against the young, it's just a fact that the young are more likely to end up in financial hot water than the old.

@cecefun2 - You can get a loan without being a citizen, you must, however, be a permanent resident.  If you don't have permanent residency, there is nothing holding you here, and if you leave, well, the bank can't come after you in a foreign country.  Sorry.

It's always best to pay off your balances in full.  Your balance reported on the credit report is the statement end balance.  Some people confuse this with current balance, which it is not.  If you use a card every month and pay it off the following month, within terms, you will always show a balance.   

I have to say, I've been a happy chase card holder for about 7 years now.  I've not once had a problem with them.